We see it all the time. A pothole appears in your driveway, that's ok it's a simple fix, just chuck some material in the hole, give it a quick tamp down, and hope for the best. Two weeks later? The hole's back, usually worse than before.

Here's the thing: fixing a pothole properly isn't complicated, but it does need doing right. Let's talk about why potholes happen and how to actually fix them so they stay fixed.

What Causes Potholes in Driveways?

Potholes don't just appear out of nowhere. They're usually the result of water getting where it shouldn't be:

Water infiltration - When water seeps into small cracks or weak spots in your driveway surface, it soaks into the layers beneath. In winter, that water freezes and expands, pushing everything apart. When it thaws, you're left with a void.

Poor drainage - If water can't drain away properly, it sits on or under your driveway surface, gradually weakening the sub-base. Over time, the weight of vehicles causes the weakened area to collapse.

Inadequate sub-base - Some driveways were never built with enough depth or the right materials in the first place. When heavy vehicles drive over weak spots repeatedly, the surface eventually gives way.

Age and wear - Even well-built driveways can develop potholes as materials compact and degrade over time, especially with regular use.

The dripping effect - Have you ever seen the famous rock with water constantly dripping on it? what about caves or the needles? Simply put water is a force of nature. Trees and bushes retain water during the wet and cold months, with that they slowly drip water over time onto your drive or track and create weak spots. Now we're not suggesting you cut them down but you do need to be aware of where they may cause you an issue.

Why Just Filling the Hole Doesn't Work

When you simply shovel material into a pothole, you're treating the symptom, not the cause. The hole formed because the underlying structure failed - the sub-base collapsed or washed away. If you just fill the void without rebuilding that foundation, you're essentially placing new material on top of... nothing.

Within days or weeks, vehicle weight will compress your fill material down into the void beneath, and you're back where you started. Sometimes worse, because now you've got loose material that can spread the problem.

How to Fix a Pothole Properly: Step-by-Step Guide

1. Clear Out the Damage

Don't just fill over the top. Dig out all the loose material until you reach solid, compacted ground. Yes, this means your hole will look bigger - that's fine. You want to remove everything that's compromised. Square off the edges if you can; clean edges create a better repair. You also need to remove as much water as possible. Sweep it out with a brush and bucket.

2. Build the Foundation with MOT Type 1 Sub-Base

This is where most DIY repairs go wrong. The foundation layer - your sub-base - needs to be proper MOT Type 1 limestone. This isn't decorative gravel; it's a specific blend of crushed limestone and dust designed to compact into a solid, load-bearing base.

Add your Type 1 in layers of about 50mm at a time, compacting each layer thoroughly before adding the next. A vibrating plate compactor is ideal, but even a hand tamper will work for smaller repairs if you put some effort in. The key is compression - you want this layer rock solid.

You can also use Type 3 as it's a SUDs compliant material and will help your drive process water over time. It's slightly more expensive but better in the long run.

Feather the edges of your repair into the existing driveway so you don't create a lip that'll break down. The smoother the transition, the longer your repair will last.

3. The Top Layer

Re graveling your driveway or track can help it last longer as it creates less stress on the sub base below. Matching into the existing gravel can be hard work if you have something that's more expensive or not local as you usually only need a small amount for top ups.

What Materials and Tools You'll Need for Pothole Repair

• Spade or shovel for excavating
• Wheelbarrow for moving materials
• Broom / Brush
• Rake for spreading and leveling
• Compactor (plate compactor ideal, hand tamper acceptable for small jobs)
• MOT Type 1 sub-base
• MOT Type 3 Sub Base
• Watering can or hose for dampening Sub Base

How Much Type 1 and Type 3 Do You Need?

Measure your pothole's length, width, and depth in metres. Multiply them together to get cubic metres. As a rough guide:

Small pothole (1m x 1m x 0.15m deep): About 0.15m³ total = 0.3 tonnes

Large pothole (2m x 1m x 0.2m deep): About 0.4m³ total = 0.9 tonnes

We'd suggest ordering slightly more than you calculate - it's better to have a bit spare than come up short mid-job. You can use our aggregate calculator here if you're unsure what you need.

When to Call in the Professionals

Be honest about the size of the job. Small potholes are manageable DIY projects if you've got the right materials and a weekend afternoon. But if you're looking at multiple large potholes, significant depth, or drainage issues that need addressing, it might be time to call in a professional groundworks contractor.

Get Your Pothole Repair Materials in Berkshire

We deliver both MOT Type 1 and Type 3 and we're happy to talk to you and help you work out what you need. We deliver to all major towns Berkshire, Hampshire, and Oxfordshire. Our main service area is Thatcham, Newbury, Hungerford, Reading, Pangbourne, Basingstoke, Tadley and all the villages in between.

The difference between a botch job and a proper repair is using the right materials in the right way. It's not complicated - but it does need doing properly.

Give us a call on 01635 866555 and we'll make sure you've got everything you need to get that pothole fixed once and for all.